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Under the Tuscan sun, the real Italian way

Beatrice Lessi

Bella Italia without stress

I hear you: you’re also fed up with mass tourism. Enough with going on holiday, ending up in a huge crowd, overpaying everything, eating badly, queuing up for a monument, taking that selfie and going home more tired than when you left.

But Tuscany is beautiful, and still in your bucket list. Is there a way to see it without stress?

I come from Tuscany myself, and I can tell you that we also love spending time in our region, for our holidays or weekends. It’s not difficult. Just do it like Italians do.

Best value in Tuscany

As a general rule, the best way to get to know the region is avoiding city centres, and looking for a good agriturismo, or for a family owned hotel. Then, forget about huge or super luxurious places. Italy’s speciality is great quality without a high price tag, without bling bling or famous chains. Locals go where things are made with love, respect for the territory, and roots in the local traditions.

One example? Calidario Terme Etrusche.

Calidario Terme Etrusche

In the heart of the Etruscan Coast, lying on the soft slopes of the green hills that frame the sea, this family owned resort features some stunning historic natural springs. A millenary lake of more than 3000 square meters is today surrounded by sleek and modern structures. I remember it almost wild, when I was a child. An extensive renovation and the creation of a beautiful spa allow guests to swim outdoors almost all year round, and at night as well. The water is around 36 degrees, depending on the amount of rain and other seasonal circumstances.

Food is excellent. Eating in restaurant Aqvolina while watching the sunset, or night swimmers calmly rippling the waters in the silence of the hills, is one of the most relaxing experiences you can have.

Rooms are cozy and traditional, with wooden beams and a little garden. A tiny church and some lines of olive trees complete the landscape. The surrounding area is stunning, but to go to the beach or visit the numerous resorts and medieval villages you do need a car.

In high season, prices start from about 150 euro, which I find excellent value for what you get.

Perfect for couples, and anybody who simply wants to relax.

Calidario Terme Etrusche is in Venturina Terme, a village one hour from the city of Livorno.

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