Are you a Materialist?

Do you remember the time Madonna used to sing Material Girl?

You know that we are living

in a material world

and I am a material girl

She perfectly picked the 80’s vibe. Owning things and making money was encouraged and seen as morally just.

But as Evelyn Gorgos of Ego Communications said last week at the prelaunch of the Materialist magazine Swiss edition, this concept has totally changed:

From “I am what I own”, to “I am what I experience”, and “I am whatever meaningful I leave to the world”.

So is it still possible to talk about luxury in an ethical way? Where do we spend most? How is the concept of luxury changing? Is there space for small luxury firms? Are younger people really interested in the ethical aspects of luxury?

These are some of the points raised during the panel discussion with Evelyn, Dr.Thomas Garms, Prof.Dr.Felicitas Morhart (HEC Lausanne), Heiko Stahl (Vitra), Martin A.Barak (Maisons Marques et Domaines/Louis Roederer), and Philippe Clarival (Hotelier), and that are also going to be discussed in the Swiss edition of the Materialist. They are relevant, online and offline, and sometimes make me crazy.

Let’s talk for example about small firms that, according to what Felicitas Morhart said, have a good chance to flourish in this fast changing market. Well, I personally wish it, but I think it’s harder and harder. Small luxury firms are like small shops – they are bound to disappear, because of chains and big brands.

I am especially thinking about fashion, where great designers get swapped between firms in a weird game that resembles the musical chairs. For example, Alessandro de Michele gets fired by Gucci,  then goes to Valentino and creates a collection that is blatantly Gucci-style. Or, better it’s Alessandro de Michele’s style. Why doesn’t he start his own brand, then? He is a genius, and most people agree. It’s because, right now, fashion managers decide everything. They treat fashion like finance, have completely lost the dream, the love for creating and dressing up a person or showing a human body, and they only try to make money and make their firms grow. Unfortunately, today, if you are not Gucci or Valentino or a big brand, it’s almost impossible to survive. Is it likely to go back to a more ethical and authentic fashion? Right now, if we don’t completely change culture, I think we are very far.

There are other fields, though. Thomas Garms asked the audience a question: where do you think we spend most? Studies say, that it’s in purchases for our homes. So I wonder if this is could be an area where small firms can prosper and create. Artisans still have a value, after all. You won’t find a perfect finish and attention to the details in Ikea.  Heiko Stahl also shortly talked about the philosophy in Vitra, which includes creating lasting pieces and not growing as a firm all the time. Maybe Felicitas Morhart was right, after all. Fingers crossed.

Hoteliers are also confronted with a fast changing sector of luxury, hospitality, that sees more and more knowledgeable clients.

I have the feeling my clients already know it all

Said Philippe Clarival.

This was in my opinion one of his key sentences, because it showed how Philip sees people as people first of all, and as customers later. And also how he doesn’t feel superior or inferior to them, but more or less equal. Which is in my opinion the optimal starting point of any service.

Yes, the new luxury is about leaving a good mark in the world.  Seeing people, treating them well at a personal level, and consequently arriving at being respectful to the planet. And also: encouraging the processes of expressing ourselves, creating something new, being curious, playing with materials until beauty comes out. Because ultimately, if you want somebody to spend a lot of money to pay for a luxury item, you need to give this person emotions. So you  can’t bully, prioritize money, or cheat. And if you do, your success will be short-lived.